Biomaterials company Modern Synthesis has secured a $5.5 million funding round, marking a significant step forward in its mission to transform the textile industry. The London-based startup, founded by former Adidas designer Jen Keane and synthetic biologist Dr. Ben Reeve, has developed a process that utilizes nanocellulose, a natural byproduct of fermentation, to create sustainable textiles and coatings. The technology offers an alternative to traditional animal leather and plastic-based textiles, broadening the possibilities for designers looking to integrate more responsible materials into their work.
Despite rising demand for sustainable solutions, environmentally friendly textiles remain a small fraction of the trillion-dollar global apparel market. With more than 35 new sustainability-related regulations expected to come into effect in the coming years, fashion brands face mounting pressure to rethink their material sourcing strategies. Research indicates that by 2030, the industry could face a 133-million-tonne shortfall in low-impact raw materials. Companies that fail to adjust risk financial repercussions and regulatory non-compliance.
Modern Synthesis positions itself as a key player in addressing this challenge by offering scalable, high-performance alternatives to conventional textiles. By leveraging nanocellulose—a polymer that is eight times stronger than steel at the nanofiber level—the company produces durable materials free from petrochemicals and toxic ingredients. These textiles not only match the performance of existing materials but also provide brands with new aesthetic and functional possibilities.
The recent investment round was led by Extantia Capital, with participation from Artesian and Collaborative Fund. The capital will be directed toward expanding production at Modern Synthesis’ pilot facility, allowing the company to collaborate with a growing number of fashion brands eager to explore sustainable material alternatives.
Jen Keane, CEO and co-founder of Modern Synthesis, emphasized the significance of this milestone, stating, "Having demonstrated unprecedented material performance without plastic, we’re primed to offer the fashion market a material solution that can both captivate consumers and unlock a path to circularity. This investment gives us the capacity to work with more brands as we continue to uncover new use cases for the technology."
Investors recognize the potential of Modern Synthesis’ approach to reshaping traditional material production. Yair Reem, a partner at Extantia Capital, remarked, "The first thing that struck us was how this material rivals traditional leathers in look and feel, but can also offer something entirely new that excites designers. Modern Synthesis represents the future of industry—delivering better, more cost-effective, and resilient materials that also happen to be green."
Artesian Investments’ Alexandra Clunies-Ross echoed this sentiment, highlighting the company’s ability to scale its innovation while making a tangible impact on the industry’s sustainability challenges.
Modern Synthesis is already demonstrating its capabilities through industry partnerships. In September 2023, the company unveiled a prototype handbag developed in collaboration with Danish fashion brand GANNI. The two firms are working together to commercially launch GANNI’s Bou Bag using Modern Synthesis’ biomaterial, signaling an important move toward integrating sustainable textiles into mainstream fashion.
As the industry grapples with environmental challenges and regulatory shifts, companies like Modern Synthesis offer a pathway toward a more sustainable future. With fresh investment in place, the company is well-positioned to drive meaningful change in material innovation while providing brands with the tools they need to adapt to an evolving regulatory landscape.
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